law says up to 0.8 percent [free acidity] and no taste defects, that’s it. I think that’s how it should be. How it should be, but not how things are.” He drew a pie chart showing what he considered the real quality of olive oil in the world: 2 percent excellent oil; 8 percent second-tier oil, good but not exceptional; and the remaining 90 percent what he called “so-so oil.